They are served with dainty roasted carrots resting in a pile of the bonito shavings, and mint and lime, a flavor play that was unexpected but memorable. Scallops are cooked exactly as they should be, with a slightly yielding center and a toasty exterior, coated in bonito crumbs. A fist-sized salad of fennel and parsley balances. So do Hawaiian blue prawns, four meaty crustaceans, tail on, dressed decadently in an onion soubise (a play on a béchamel sauce, in which an onion purée brings the creaminess) and butter made from shrimp-shell stock and burnt lemon that adds an exuberant citrus note. It straddles a line between summer and winter with aplomb. While I’m not typically a huge fan of albacore tuna, the salad here with a sizable piece of the poached fish is an inspired, refreshing dish, covered in black-eyed peas in which hide a pop of sweet-sour pickled raisins and shaved braised celery. It’s a nice alternative to a heavier fried-oyster sandwich.
Oysters are also represented well here, with local selections on the half shell and a lovely fried-oyster Lyonnaise salad: frisée topped with flaky crusted bivalves and the richness of bacon lardons tempered by the lightness of a miso mustard vinaigrette-all of it silkily incorporated by the mixing-in of a soft egg. Of course, if the clam dip happens to be on the menu that night too, well, you’ll just have to make a tough choice-or order both. Poutine, the Canadian gut-busting feast of fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy, here takes the form of fries piled with chunky littleneck clam chowder, bacon, and scallions, the latter two ingredients conjuring a loaded baked potato. And it may very well have what could become a Seattle signature dish: Poutine o’ the Sea. I’m happy to report that the new pub is worthy of its location, with a menu that emphasizes seafood, from oysters on the half shell to sautéed scallops. N., 588-2680), was gearing up for a fall opening. Meanwhile, adjacent to it, his larger restaurant, with an expanded menu that still includes fried fish and oyster sandwiches, the White Swan Public House (1001 Fairview Ave. In late summer I wrote about 100-Pound Clam, the walk-up fish-and-chips shack on Lake Union run by Dan Bugge (Matt’s in the Market, Radiator Whiskey), which managed to open just in time to take advantage of those perfect late-summer Seattle days.
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